Is your 10-step skincare regimen all style and no substance?
“I’m always a little surprised at how many people will invest in high-end treatments or complex routines, but skip the fundamentals,” Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue, told The Post.
Engelman often sees three glaring skincare slip-ups — including one simple mistake that could be quietly sabotaging your pricey products. Here’s how to avoid them.
#1. Retinol regret
“One of the biggest blind spots I see is retinol,” Engelman said.
Retinol — the milder, over-the-counter cousin of prescription-strength retinoids — is a vitamin A-derived powerhouse that tackles everything from fine lines to acne.
“It’s a cornerstone for increasing cell turnover, smoothing texture, improving pigmentation and stimulating collagen,” Engelman explained. “It really is the gold standard in anti-aging.”
Still, most people aren’t using it. Studies show only about a quarter of American women and one in ten US men include retinol in their skincare routines.
“It’s one of the most well-studied ingredients we have in dermatology, and yet people are still hesitant, either because they’ve had one bad experience or because they’re worried about irritation,” Engelman said.
“The truth is, there are so many elegant, buffered formulations now that make retinol incredibly accessible, even for sensitive skin,” she added.
While retinol can cause irritation like redness, itchiness and peeling, simple steps can help minimize these side effects.
If you’re just starting out, try using retinol every other or every third night and gradually working up to daily use, according to the Cleveland Clinic.
Waiting about 30 minutes after washing your face before applying retinol can reduce irritation. For sensitive skin, applying moisturizer first can also help by creating a protective buffer that can prevent discomfort.
#2. Exfoliation overload
“People love that fresh, squeaky-clean feeling, but more isn’t always better,” Engelman said.
Your skin naturally sheds dead cells every 30 days, but when those cells don’t fully slough off, it can lead to problems like dryness, clogged pores and hyperpigmentation. Exfoliating — whether with chemicals, scrubs or tools — helps clear the buildup, revealing a brighter, smoother complexion.
Over time, exfoliating can even boost the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm, elastic, and wrinkle-free.
But going overboard can backfire.
“I see a lot of patients with compromised skin barriers because they’re using too many acids, too frequently, or layering physical and chemical exfoliants without realizing the cumulative effect,” Engelman said.
The result? Inflamed, reactive skin that’s more prone to breakouts and dullness.
“Exfoliation should be thoughtful, not aggressive,” Engelman warned. “It’s about supporting the skin, not scrubbing it into submission.”
For oily or normal skin, experts generally recommend exfoliating 2-3 times a week. If your skin is dry or sensitive, you may only need to do it once per week.
#3. Clueless cleansing
In surveys, a staggering 80% of Americans admit to making at least one mistake when cleansing their face — including half of men and women who regularly skip washing before bedtime.
“It sounds so basic, but so many people do a quick once-over with a wipe or skip a proper cleanse altogether if they’re tired,” Engelman said.
Failing to wash your face, especially if you wear makeup, can lead to clogged pores, breakouts, dullness and premature aging over time.
Experts recommend washing your face with a gentle cleanser in the morning and at night to remove sweat, oil, dirt and debris that build up throughout the day and while you’re asleep.
If you wear makeup or sunscreen, Engelman advises double cleansing at night.
“An oil-based cleanser first, then a gentle second cleanse to remove residue,” she said. “It helps keep the skin clear, the barrier intact, and preps the skin to actually absorb your serums and treatments. Without that clean canvas, even the best products won’t perform.”
“At the end of the day, I’d always rather see someone with a few consistent, thoughtful steps than a long, chaotic list of products that don’t work well together,” Engelman said.
“Skin thrives on consistency, not overwhelm.”
