Keep your camera at the ready.
At Finch Hattons Safari Camp in Kenya, a tower of preening giraffes might strike a pose next to your Land Cruiser.
Or a parched elephant could set a thirst trap by drinking in a private plunge pool.
A stay at the property, part of Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Limited Edition portfolio, promises countless photo ops, from rhinos and crocodiles wallowing in natural springs to an Oxpecker catching a ride on a zebra’s back. It’s an out-of-this world experience.
Set in Tsavo West National Park about 150 miles west of Nairobi, the camp is named after British aristocrat, aviator and hunter-turned-anti-poacher Denys George Finch-Hatton, best known as the lover of Karen Blixen in her memoir, “Out of Africa.” The handsome adventurer, who died tragically in a 1931 plane crash, was played by Robert Redford in the Oscar-winning movie of the same name.
The famed property, established more than 30 years ago, is every bit as swoon-worthy as its namesake hero. There are 14 luxury tented suites, each beautifully appointed with a private deck, antique rugs, an Old-World writing desk, bronze soaker bathtub, king-sized bed and complimentary maxi bar. And to be clear, apart from their mosquito-proof netted walls, these sumptuous villas bear no resemblance to camping tents.
Two spacious two-bedroom suites accommodate families while the deluxe Finch Hattons Suite comes with a heated plunge pool as well as a dedicated butler, game-drive vehicle and guide. It’s the perfect romantic hideaway for honeymooners and VIPs.
Days start early, as animals are most active before first light and the temperature is cooler before first light. After coffee, tea and freshly squeezed fruit juice at the pavilion, vehicles depart promptly at 6 a.m. on morning game drives. A chef-cooked breakfast is served al fresco on the savannah or back at the camp.
Finch’s team of incredibly knowledgeable Maasai guides are expert at spotting wildlife, from the mythic Big Five – lion, leopard, elephant, African buffalo and rhinoceros – to hundreds of bird species. Also roving are the Ugly Five: the spotted hyena, wildebeest, vulture, marabou stork and the hideous warthog.
While there is no guarantee of a big cat sighting on any safari, rangers do their utmost to locate apex predators. Guests are assured of seeing Tsavo’s famous soil-stained “red elephants,” buffalo, giraffes and zebra, which parade on the plains. One thing visitors will likely not encounter: another 4×4. There are fewer lodges and tourists in Tsavo than, say, the Maasai Mara, so you will likely have the bush to yourself.
Our ranger, Matthew, taught us about animal behaviors, identified tracks and bird calls (like the ring-necked dove’s trill, which sounds like a cell phone) and also shared information about Maasai traditions and his village. He was very funny, quipping for instance that a strutting male baboon was “acting like a branch manager,” so his passengers were always laughing.
It’s worth getting up the middle of the night for the 4:30 a.m. drive and hike up the Chyulu Hills, with breakfast on the crest. As the day dawns, the sky is streaked fiery orange and pink, and Mt. Kilimanjaro stands majestic in the distance. A nature walk in the cloud forest with its sacred Mugumo tree swings, formed naturally by the aerial roots, concludes the unforgettable outing.
Afternoon game drives might also include a trip to the Shetani lava flow, a dark and jagged landscape that stretches five miles, followed by sundowners and the Maasai Olympics on the savannah. The staff taught guests to spear-throw, play “bush basketball” with a rungu club and shoot arrows at a target. It was a magical evening.
Another highlight was a visit to a nearby Maasai village where guests were invited to enter a traditional manyatta house made of wood, mud, cow dung and ash. A brief torrential rainstorm made the visit even more memorable, as everyone sheltered together under umbrellas and tarps. While it’s not necessary to bring money, guests might wish to make a donation to the village or buy the traditional handmade beaded and metal crafts.
When not on game drives or lounging at the acacia-fringed pool, guests can book body and face treatments and massages at Chyulu Spa, the largest holistic wellness center in the East African bush. The soothing space features two treatment rooms, a hammam and a gym, while yoga classes are offered on an outdoor deck overlooking the facility’s infinity pool.
The superb farm-to-fork restaurant is better than many New York hotspots. Executive chef Sudi Baha helms the kitchen, which makes everything on site, from the bread to the ice cream. Lunch and dinner start with a delicious soup, often prepared with vegetables and herbs from the organic garden, followed by a choice of entrées and desserts. Guests looked forward to every meal.
In the evening, patrons might sip a gin and tonic (mixed with Nairobi’s award-winning Procero Blue Dot gin and a pinch of its flavor-enhancing botanical salts) in the Karen Blixen Lounge. Or they could watch “Out of Africa” on a movie screen under the stars.
When it’s time to call it a night, a flashlight-toting guard or two will escort guests to their rooms, listening and watching carefully for wildlife.
After all, animals roam free, just as nature intended.
Rooms from $990 per person per night during low season and $1,450 per person per night during high season. Rates include all meals and a selection of drinks, return Finch Hattons airstrip transfers, park fees and scheduled activities including game drives and local excursions. To get to the property, guests fly to Nairobi, then take a charter or scheduled plane to the property’s airstrip.
